Chef’s Eats: Logan Hester’s Favourite Restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City

Kicking off an exciting series of Chef’s Eats, Chôm Chôm head chef Logan Hester brings us onto a journey of flavour in Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam has long been a destination for foodies. France, Italy, and Spain have all had their time in the culinary limelight but with the debut of The Michelin Guide, we now have 103 more reasons that will whet your appetite for adventure.

With four restaurants being awarded stars (three in Hanoi and one in Ho Chi Minh City) and a plethora more included, there are more than enough selections to keep you wanting to visit longer and explore more.

Before moving to Hong Kong to become Head Chef for Chôm Chôm, I called Vietnam home for five years. When I first moved to Vietnam and began diving head first into the cuisine, I couldn’t imagine that one day, the Michelin Guide would review bánh mì and phở. Fast forward to today, there are 17 in the Guide.

With all of the talented teams and fantastic flavours Vietnam has to offer, the race is on to continue to capture hearts and imaginations. Even beyond my recommendations, Ho Chi Minh City is a perfect city to just get lost and search for what smells good. Vietnam is close to my heart (and stomach) and I can’t wait to be exploring its alleyways and side streets again, eager to learn more about this marvellous country and hungry to taste the next rising star of Ho Chi Minh’s food scene.

My time in Vietnam has shown me that there’s something for everyone, but here are my “Chef’s Picks” for your next trip to Ho Chi Minh City.

Chôm Chôm head chef Logan Hester shares his favourite dining establishments in the Vietnamese capital.

ĂnĂn Saigon

Chef Peter Cuong Franklin is a visionary. Coming off the heels of success in Hong Kong – he opened Chôm Chôm in 2011 – Franklin decided to further pursue his passion for elevating and celebrating Vietnamese street food culture back in his home city, and ĂnĂn is the result. Over the past six years, Franklin and his team continued to reimagine classic flavours and dishes with a touch of whimsy and playfulness, satisfying appetites and collecting accolades along the way. Not only is the restaurant the first and only starred dining establishment in Ho Chi Minh City, but it is also ranked #40 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023.

ĂnĂn, which translates to “Eat-Eat”, has several sister concepts within the same building. Heading up the stairs and past the kitchen, you’ll find Nhau Nhau, Pot Au Phở, and Ă Rooftop Bar. If you can’t find a seat at ĂnĂn, don’t hesitate to give one of these places a try. At ĂnĂn, I would highly encourage you to go with the 12-course tasting menu, a steal at HK$800, if you only have one chance to dine here. While all concepts offer a-la-carte offerings, the team puts extra care and attention into curating an ever-evolving selection of dishes, from “one bite phở” to a scaled-down portion of their infamous, and utterly over-the-top US$100 bánh mì.

ĂnĂn, 89 Ton That Dam, District 1, HCMC. Closed Mondays. http://anansaigon.com

Elgin

A team with ties to the heart of SoHo is reexamining the fantastically fresh ingredients of Vietnam through an international lens. Located in the up-and-coming district of Dakao (just a 5-minute taxi ride from District 1), Elgin offers guests a level of genuine hospitality that stands out in Ho Chi Minh. Dishes like their Lamb Gnocchi Sugo have an added depth of umami thanks to a touch of fish sauce, an ingredient which is at the heart of almost all Vietnamese cuisine. With their selection of fun and funky wines and knowledgeable staff, you will be sure to find an exciting pairing. I highly encourage curious and courageous diners to let the team take the lead and send out a selection of their favourites… you will not be disappointed. 

Elgin, 27 Mac Dinh Chi, Dakao, District 1, HCMC. Closed Sundays.

Esta

Tucked away in the middle of the quiet Tân Định neighbourhood sits one of my favourite restaurants in HCM. Esta’s dark and intimate dining room is accented by the crackle of live fire and the wonderful aromas of it. Chef Thuan Tran explores the abundance of prime local seafood, local produce, and traditional flavours of fermentation and open-fire cooking. The best seats in the house are at the chef’s counter, where you can see dry-aged ducks, expertly sourced from northern Vietnam, gently dancing in the rising smoke while enjoying any number of delicious bites and the stories that come along with them! The knowledge and passion that this team brings to the table highlight their mastery of flavour and continue to stoke the fire of excitement for Vietnamese food and culture.

Esta, 27 Tran Quy Khoach, Tan Dinh Ward, District 1, HCMC, estasaigon.com

Phở Lệ Le (District 5)

No matter where you stay in HCMC, you’ll trip over bowls of delicious noodles. For many foreign foodies, Phở is likely your first foray into the world of Vietnamese Cuisine. While District 5 may not be walking distance (think Central to Causeway Bay), this is by far my favourite place for Phở. Some shops specialize in either the noodle, broth, or the meat – Phở Lệ delivers a no-nonsense bowl accompanied by tottering platters of herbs. With sweeter, vegetal “Southern-style” broth and enough protein to make a gym-bro blush, it is a must-try. If you want to experience this Phở at its best, skip the hotel breakfast, and start your day off with a beefy bowl of noodles, followed by a cà phê sữa đá (coffee with condensed milk) around the corner after! I was incredibly happy that this 70-year-old establishment was awarded Bib Gourmand.

Phở Lệ Le, 413-415 Nguyen Trai, Ward 7, District 5, HCMC. Cash Only.

An’s Saigon

I had the privilege of working beside Chef Cuong Nguyen while working at ĂnĂnat Saigon, and I have never met a more talented and driven young chef. His current concept, launched just last year, is a complete experience, housing a progressive Vietnamese restaurant, an open-air café, and a boutique spa. To experience it all, start with coffee or drinks in their garden, followed by a cheeky afternoon spa session, and finally complete the evening at the Chef’s Table. While their a-la-carte menu (available in the lounge and garden) offers some of the most delicious dishes in town, the Chef’s Menu brings diners into the rich narrative of Vietnamese family meals through two different 12-course menus. It truly is a unique and enchanting perspective of elevated Vietnamese hospitality.

An’s Saigon, 5a Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thảo Điền Ward, District 2, HCM. Open every day. Chef’s Table is only available from Tuesday to Sunday. anssaigon.com